MANA Winegrowers from top left to right: Rockferry, Huia & Te Whare Ra. Bottom left to right: Clos Henri, Hanz Herzog.

A cool and dry summer with even temperatures and low rainfall has produced some exceptional Marlborough wines, albeit being one of the lowest yielding and earliest vintages in recent years.

Balanced, concentrated, and fleshy is how the MANA group of organic and biodynamic producers are describing these wines – most of which are quietly tucked away in the respective cellars, bubbling away softly while finishing their ferments.

MANA Winegrowers is a collective of Marlborough organic and biodynamic winegrowers who are united by a commitment to handcrafting stunning wines and sharing knowledge. What began as a low-key conversation over a beer or two, grew into a shared passion for cultivating Marlborough’s unique characteristics and safeguarding them for future generations.

Starting off cold and frosty, 2021 hinted at being a challenging season. ‘Frosts and wetter conditions early in the season led to the early ripening varieties having a disruptive flowering. As the season progressed, it became clear that there would be low crops and many ‘hen and chicken’ bunches” said Rock Ferry’s head winemaker Allan McWilliams.

While hen and chicken (or ‘millerandage’) affect yield due to the disproportionally high number of small berries, it also promotes the concentration of aromas and flavours in the grapes, resulting in wines with rich fruit flavours and in reds, smooth and fine ripe tannins.

Anna Flowerday, Winemaker and owner of Te Whare Ra commented that “2021 is an exceptional year – we knew going into harvest we would have low crops, some of the lowest crops we’ve ever seen here. However, the positive spin on this is that we’re seeing exceptional quality. The low cropping level and amazing season have produced these wines which are complete, balanced and have great concentration”.

‘A winemakers’ dream vintage’ is how Rock Ferry winemaker Jordan Hogg describes 2021. “It was great – we were able to pick at optimum sugars, acids and pH, while the lower yields due to the disruptive flowering last year ensured we had amazing ripeness”. An unexpectedly early start to harvest (2 weeks earlier than usual), had Anna ‘not mentally prepared’ for the start of vintage; but the great weather and beautiful fruit resulted in a “no stress and very exciting harvest”.

MANA wines speak proudly of their soils and seasons. This is enhanced by the commitment of MANA to tūrangaewaewae – using a combination of organics, biodynamics, low intervention winemaking practices and allowing regional, sub-regional and vineyard influences to flourish in their wines, which are all 100% grown, produced, and bottled in Marlborough. “When you taste wine, it is really a reflection of your soils” said Claire, winemaker, and owner of Huia Vineyards.

Although Riesling is Anna’s favourite variety, the Sauvignon Blanc from 2021 has her super excited, along with Jordan. Damien, of Clos Henri Vineyard, said “Sauvignon Blanc is a very subtle variety that has this unique ability to express so transparently the characteristics of its terroir and each growing season. 2021 Sauvignon Blanc already seem to remind us of the freshness of 2020 and the concentration of 2019.”

Although renowned for Sauvignon Blanc, the Marlborough region is host to an incredible range of different varieties. MANA members, Hanz and Therese Herzog now have 26 different varieties which span a range of ripening periods. “By intentionally pruning for smaller yields, we are able to consistently aim for physiological and phenolic ripeness. This year, we have seen in both our earlier ripening and later ripening varieties, high concentration and impeccable fruit quality so we are really feeling that 2021 will be a special vintage”.

A silver lining of the short supply of vintage interns due to closed borders; recruits for vintage came from many different backgrounds. At Huia Vineyards, there were many new experiences for their all-girl team “We all have this romantic version of what vintage is like, but nothing can prepare you for the incredible feeling of seeing the whole process of turning grapes into wine, the delicious smell of fermenting juice and those magical moments between the vines seeing the biodiversity and the health of the soils” said Katie, who comes from a hospitality background.

Farming organically maintains the diversity of flora and fauna in the vineyard ecosystem to establish long term soil health and fertility. Organic farming is an intense process with plenty of long hours and passion behind it “Harvest is a celebration of a year of hard work that has gone into these grapes and the soils – it is such a good feeling to be able to pick organic and biodynamic fruit,’ said Therese Herzog.

“As winegrowers close to our land and vines, our lives are guided by the rhythm of seasons. MANA Winegrowers also resonates as collective support for each of our members. We have a common belief that our land and our people are the most precious assets. At the close of each vintage, it is a great pleasure to check in on each other, making sure we are well, and we have once again produced wines that are meaningful to us as makers and to our loyal consumers” commented Damien.

MANA Winegrowers are extremely excited about the future release of these 2021 wines which promise to be some of the most balanced and vibrant in recent years.

Read my recent reviews for Clos Henri, Huia and Rockferry.

MANA Winegrowers toast to a small but exceptional 2021 Marlborough Vintage