Have grapes, need winemaker – Five minutes with James Rowan

If you’re in the NZ wine scene, you’ll know James Rowan (fondly referred to as James James) on several levels. The talented and experienced winemaker, the uber-cool gentleman about town, the warm and caring friend.

I first met James  when he was starting out at Westbrook wines with Anthony Ivicevich, around the corner from our home in Sunnyvale, Auckland. The Ivicevich family are part of the New Zealand, and more particularly West Auckland, story of wine. James’ first interview with Anthony took six hours - “If you’re going to be passing something on to someone who is a non-family member and it’s the first time ever you just don’t just hand over the keys because their resumé looks good”.

Signing the contract took another four hours. “We were talking, tasting and sharing ideas this is how I began to understand the philosophy underpinning the wine making and wine styles I was about to take charge of. This was also 2004 and that vintage was enormous”.

He has been the chief winemaker at Westbrook Wines (now in Waimauku Valley – but that’s a story for another day) for sixteen vintages. The tale of how he became a fine winemaker is one of chance, yet built around a passion for the outdoors and adventure.

He wasn’t meant to be a winemaker, but an optometrist – his Dad’s idea, but it just didn’t gel. He then switched his study plan to marine biology. Though loving the outdoors, he realised he didn’t actually like swimming in the sea that much. 

James was funding his study through a part-time job at a Country Road clothing store. One day a colleague at the store mentioned her husband worked for Glengarry’s and suggested that because James was into wine and slightly mad (like most winemakers) that he should think about becoming a winemaker. This piqued James’s curiosity and after making some enquiries he realised he could combine his loves of wine and the outdoors by swapping his study regime to viticulture (which include winemaking papers). He headed to Lincoln University (Canterbury), ultimately graduating with a Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology, class of ‘95. 

His first job out of university was managing a vineyard in the Wairarapa for the Petrie family (synonymous with Ata Rangi Wines). While undertaking this contract another chance meeting led to a viticulture role in the Awatere Valley in Marlborough preparing vineyards, followed by a brief stint back in Auckland selling wine for Glengarry’s. Another chance meeting – this time with Jim Delegat (Delegat’s Wines) led to an interview and James’s first job as a cellar hand at Delegat’s Wines in West Auckland where he did three vintages, mostly on night-shift.

His now somewhat well-rounded wine work history led to Waiheke Island and Mudbrick Wines where he began his first full-time role as a winemaker. This also included overseeing the construction of a new winery which would handle contract winemaking in addition to the needs of Mudbrick – he spent several seasons there before the move to Westbrook. 

When I interviewed James for this piece it is right in the middle of vintage 2020 and the only place I could talk to him was at the winery, before sunrise. His day starts at 4:00am during vintage. The first thing he does is walk through and smell the tanks and the barrels – this keeps him in touch with what’s going on. He does a lot of kilometres in the winery every day.

I asked him about the biggest learning curve he faced when becoming the full-time winemaker for Westbrook. He replied that it was the realisation that the buck stops with him. For example, the decision of when to harvest the grapes is an apparently simple, but critical decision. It’s also important for his winemaking to keep control of every step in the process to ensure the result he is seeking.

In a difficult vintage, the pressure can be immense – but he is adamant that winemakers who have been around for a while can make some of the most interesting wine in challenging vintages. It’s a test of their skill and mettle. 

Tough decisions can include refusing fruit from a supplier – he’s very conscious that in the wine business reputation is key. He considers the most powerful tools he has in his arsenal at the winery are his nose and the power of observation. A quality harvest means you don’t have to make wine by numbers - it will make itself if you provide it with the right conditions; though he will interfere when he has to, using technique and experience, as well as products he has at his disposal.

James is very aware of the technical side of his job – running the numbers on the fruit or juice when it arrives, checking for acid and sugar levels. “The structure, palate and safety of the juice is very important to me, what’s going on at a microbial level.”

James’ skillset and reputation have drawn the attention of many brands over the years. In addition to Westbrook, he currently counts Brick Bay, Charles Wiffen, Heron’s Flight (Rosé) and SOHO (Waiheke Island) among his clients. His small and dedicated team includes assistant winemaker Renée Dale (who also has her own brand – Moi Wines), and vineyard manager Michael Dulieu with Leanne Fairbrother helping with the vines.

Mentoring his team is important to him: he considers that part of being a leader is passing on what you know, and tasting wine every day with his colleagues is critical to mutual learning, and working together to make quality wine.

It’s obvious he really does enjoy making wine - he loves the opportunity to discuss what he does, and take his visitors on an aromatic and tactile journey through the winery, creating great wine experiences. I have personally been involved in somewhat legendary tasting experiences with him, featuring wines from our cellars and those of other wine loving (and hoarding) friends.

Westbrook Winery’s cellar door (now under new ownership) is open to the public for wine tasting, and getting close to the vines is allowed as well.