Where to visit in the wonderful Wairarapa
Above: a tasting at Moy Hall Wines, Vineyard & Restaurant in Martinborough
Boutique, charming, welcoming and full of character aptly describes the Wairarapa region of Aotearoa. The best way to get there is by car over the Remutaka Hills from Wellington or fly into Palmerston North and drive down. There’s a train from Wellington to Featherston, Masterton and Gladstone too. Once there, it’s easy to ditch the car (or van) in favour of an electric bicycle to slow things down and explore.
The three wine sub-regions to visit from north to south are Masterton, Gladstone and Martinborough. Every producer in each sub seems to have a fascinating story underpinning their journey to becoming farmers and winemakers, along with some marvellous examples to try. There is often a small tasting fee to pay; this is normal, with the payment refunded if you purchase a bottle. One can discover fine Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, red blends and Syrah, along with rosé, sparkling wine and a range of aromatics, and experimental varieties and styles.
With around twenty-six cellar doors to visit, many with excellent dining options, there is plenty to taste and eat along the way. Be sure to check if an appointment is necessary, as some of the venues are boutique and need to know you’re heading their way. I have enjoyed excellent food at Poppies, Luna Estate, Coney Wines, Escarpment and Margrain. I have also had a fantastic lunch with a great range of wines by the glass at the Union Square Bistro located inside the Martinborough Hotel. There are some decent cafés around too with Medici and the Village Café, but my favourite is the Neighbourhood Coffee House.
No wine story of the region is complete without mentioning Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry River, Escarpment, Martinborough Vineyards, Schubert, Gladstone, Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder, Colombo (great pizza too!), Butterworth and Te Kairanga. Be sure to stop by Cambridge Road and tasting room too – the wines are complex and exciting, small batch production and each with a lesson in natural wine and natural wine farming. With labels like ‘Down the Rabbit Hole’, ‘Cloud Walker’ and ‘Tiger’, the wines will open your eyes and palate to flavours and textures that may take you on a wine journey through the road less travelled.
I recommend two-three full days are needed to explore the region properly. With huge smiles and welcoming hospitality in so many places, great wine, in fact, fine wine alongside some excellent dining options, a trip to the Wairarapa should be a destination goal for 2022.
See Wairarapa Wine for more info.