To decant or not – that is the question

Above: decanting white wine in the Jancis Robinson young wine decanter

There are two main reasons why wine may need decanting; these are to remove wine from any sediment that may have formed in the bottle or allow the wine to absorb oxygen quickly – to ‘breathe’.

Wines that are very dark in colour when young such as blended reds or fortified-wine like Madeira or port, often precipitate sediment as they age. Smaller particles of colour and tannin join together, becoming heavier and slowly fall through the wine resting against the inside of the bottle. Moving the bottle too quickly from its place in the cellar can disturb the sediment, so a slow and careful technique is best. At Partington’s restaurant, Sheraton Hotel Auckland, we used Sterling-silver baskets to move single bottles from cellar to table for decanting. The slow natural swing caused by walking did not disturb the sediment. With advanced notice, we could stand a bottle upright for 24 hours or more, making decanting easier with the sediment already settled at the base of the bottle.

All red wines lose colour as they age, becoming lighter from slow oxidation or a build-up of sediment, or both. Moving wine from one vessel to another or separating wine from sediment is called decanting. It requires patience – this is a slow process, a decent decanter with a wide neck, so none spills over the top, a candle or source of light – to see the sediment, called smoke, reach the shoulder of the bottle indicating when to stop decanting. Occasionally an old or weak cork may partially disintegrate into the wine when pulled, so a filter may also be needed. This won’t happen with glass or screwcap closures. Decanters with a wide diameter at the shoulder are for wines that need to breathe. Those with a narrower diameter are more for wines separated from sediment and don’t need aerating.

Under the right conditions, wine can age slowly, eventually reaching a window for perfect drinking lasting months or years. This window is reached when the various structural and flavour components have melded together, forming synergies, complexities and harmonies that are perfect for the style. When that window arrives is up to you to decide or otherwise suggested by the producer or a wine adviser. Wines do not automatically get better or more complex with age.

Breathing a wine uses decanting to expose the juice to oxygen as it leaves the bottle, as well as when inside the decanter, providing there is a large enough surface area for the juice to react with air. The theory being that wine will respond to rapid exposure to oxygen enough to make it seem like it has aged some or just to ‘wake-up’ the juice. Splash decanting is a method used for young red or white wines for just this purpose. Once a bottle is open, the wine is poured into the decanter as quickly as possible, mixing it with as much oxygen as possible.

If a white or red wine is too cold for service, then decanting will assist with bringing it to the correct temperature. If you’re in a hurry, then warm the outside of the decanter with water, dry with a lint-free cloth and then decant. In my experience, an aerator tool, sold online or in bartender shops and some stores, does little to speed up what a decanter can do.

Seasoning is a technique that conditions the inside of the decanter with a small amount of another wine, typically a house wine, which is swirled around the decanter to pick up any dust and stale air first, then emptied before the actual wine for service is then decanted in.

Decanters and decanting are tools that add to the ceremony and enjoyment of wine. There are many sizes and shapes available, so I suggest choosing one that fits your setting and personal style.